Raudbua
Well I don't know if anyone is interested (you can leave comments you know) but I have been developing a new boulder. I first saw this one about 6 years ago but after pulling a small flake off dismissed it as rotten. Well it certainly isn't rotten, after a fair bit of cleaning it's looking like a superb addition to the Haugland circuit. To get there park as for Lipman but follow the path that is the continuation of the road. After 15min the path goes steeply down, the boulder is to the right of the path in a pine wood So far only four problems has been completed but some others are being worked on.
0. Chana Dale 6aThe hanging arete, not very good but had to be done.
1. Salvador Dale 7a+
Called this because the boulder looks like something out of a Salvador Dali painting. Climbs the biggest wall. Start on a small side pull out to the left head for the obvious sloper and up.
1a. Salvador Direct 7b
Shoulder press and catch sidepull with left.
2. Dale Lama (Project)
The wall left of Salvador using the mono and sidepull to start.
3. Thor Heyerdale (project)
The short groove to the left from a sitdown start.
0. Dilly Dale 6c
Up from start of Benny sitdown, using everything
2.Benny Rivedale 6c (photo)
Start on the black ripple and up to the hanging sloper, use hold on right arete to gain the top.
Variation 1 6c
From the black ripples throw a heel out left and reach for the crimp in the corner and up.
1. Benny Sit down (full) 7b+
Start out left from the good side pull up and travers the slopers into Benny.
1a Benny Sit down (short) 7b (photo)
Start from the crimp and side pull right of the full sit down, slap the sloper and right to benny.
1b Benny sit down direct 7a+
Sit down just right of the black ripple pull up on two small holds and slap to the ripple with the left hand.
3. Roald Dale 6c
Use the poor flake to get your feet over the lip and reach the slot in the corner.
4. Chippendale (project)
Hmm!
posted by Chris Hamper at 10:15 PM
4 Comments:
Quite a productive evening, temp. a lot cooler. worked out the sequence of foot changes for Benny sd. Getting close to Tor Heyerdale, will wear a shin pad next time though. Two days ago did the direct start to Salvador, with finish will be 7b.
Worked an alternative sitdown to Benny from the crimp/sidepull combination slapping up to the middle sloper with the left. This will be Benny sd (short), the other is Benny sd (full). Also spotted the possibility to go up from the slopes with a foot out left.
Did Benny sd (short). Could be 7b. Also went straight up from the start of Benny sd (full) at 6c not classic but worth doing.
With the added incentive of an audience managed Benny sit down (full) 7b+ and Salvador direct 7b.
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